“The waves broke and spread their waters swiftly over the shore. One after another they massed themselves and fell; the spray tossed itself back with the energy of their fall. The waves were steeped deep-blue save for a pattern of diamond-pointed light on their backs which rippled as the backs of great horses ripple with muscles as they move. The waves fell; withdrew and fell again, like the thud of a great beast stamping.” ― Virginia Woolf (The Waves)
I love watching the waves from a distance. Taking a photo of it. But that’s about it.
I am not a beach person. I don’t like too much sun.
But last week, I tamed the waves and surfed.
It’s easy as it looks. I’ve been watching people surf and repeatedly told myself, “If they can do it, then I could too!” I can dive; I can swim so maybe…just maybe I can tame the waves and surf.
But surfing is not about taming the waves; it’s actually catching it and riding along with it. The instructor told two important things about surfing: balance and relax. “Don’t be afraid with the waves, just relax get your balance going and enjoy the ride!” He said that so many times that it still rings in my head until now. The lesson ran for 5-10 minutes, introducing the parts of the surf board, the stance, balancing, paddling and standing, positioning the feet and the hand, bending the knee, etc.. I had everything in mind, like a good students. Theoretically, I could pass the exam. But then came the actual surfing.
My first attempt to stand on the board, I immediately fell. My second attempt, I fell flat on the water. My third attempt, I slipped. My fourth was drastic, I couldn’t even stand. My balancing skill was pathetic. I got tired. I lied down on the board and asked myself, why am I doing this?
As I waited for the next wave to come, the instructor gave me the cue to stand and balance. Eventually, I was able to do it. Men, it felt good! It’s a high that was difficult to describe. No wonder people are addicted to surfing!